Steel, aluminum and copper tiles make dramatic,
high impact kitchen backsplashes. They're also
easy to install, last forever and don't require any
grouting.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine:
December / January 2011
1. Order the tile
2. Prepare for tiling
3. Glue the tiles to the wall
No Grout
In a backsplash if the tiles are not getting wet and you like the no
grout look, go with no grout. If the area has a chance to be getting
constantly wet, then you
need to grout to protect the adhesion of the tile to the wall.
Most popular color grout is white,grey or black.
Order the tile
Tile choices
Stainless steel, aluminum and copper tiles are available in
many styles, in brushed or matte finish. Some tiles are bowed
to create a basket-weave look.

Once you find a tile size and style you like, decide on an installation pattern. You can combine different shapes to
form a design or install the tiles in a traditional stacked or subway style like ours. Most stainless steel tiles have a
backing that makes them easy to install.. You can choose from cork, hardboard,PE and cement board backing.
Cork,PE or hardboard is good for backsplash installations. Use cement board in wet areas like showers.
Use graph paper or a computer drawing program to plan the pattern and calculate how many pieces of each size
of tile you'll need. Order several extra tiles in case you miscut one or miscalculate the amount. We decided on a
subway pattern using 12 x 2-1/2-in. tiles. If you have an open end on your wall and you're installing the tile in a
subway pattern, make sure to order half tiles to start every other row.
Prepare for tiling
Photo 1: Try out the layout
Hang the tiles with masking tape to determine the best layout.
By shifting the tiles to the left or right, you can avoid cutting
small slices of tile to fill in at the ends.
Before you get started, find a long straight board or metal straightedge and use it to determine whether the walls
in the backsplash area are flat. If the walls have humps or depressions, the tile will be uneven. For a great-looking
job, you should fix these problems now, either by filling in the low spots with a layer of joint compound or by filling
alongside humps and feathering them out to make them less pronounced.
Next, plan the installation to avoid skinny tile cuts if possible. You can also make a scale drawing and sketch the
layout on paper, or make a template of your backsplash with butcher paper or cardboard and lay the tiles over it.
The idea is to adjust the layout for the most pleasing look.
It's dangerous to work around live outlets with metal tiles. Before you begin the installation, turn off the power to
the kitchen outlets and lights at the main electrical panel. We removed the outlets and switches in the backsplash
area and capped the wires because we planned to replace the ivory-colored devices with gray ones. If you plan to
keep the same outlets and switches, wrap two layers of wide blue painter's tape around the entire device to cover
the face and terminal screws. Then twist the device so that you can push it partially into the box where it will be out
of the way. Leave the power turned off while you install the tiles.
Before you reinstall the outlets and switches, add box extensions to bring the face of the electrical box flush to the
face of the tile. You'll find plastic box extensions at home centers and hardware stores.


Photo 2: Mark, don't measure
To avoid mistakes in measuring, hold the tile in place and
mark it instead. For accuracy, use a fine-tip permanent
marker. Hold a border tile in position and mark where it
intersects the next full tile. Draw a level line across the tile at
the mark.
Mark for cut

You can leave spaces between the tiles and grout them just like ceramic tiles, but they look better set tight
together. Grout lines detract from the metallic look. Peel off the protective plastic coating after you're finished
installing the tiles.
No Grout
In a backsplash if the tiles are not getting wet and you like the no grout look, go with no grout.
If the area has a chance to be getting constantly wet, then you
need to grout to protect the adhesion of the tile to the wall.
Most popular color grout is white,grey or black.
The best way to cut stainless steel tiles is with a diamond wet saw. Cut the tile face up so that any lip
that forms is on the back of the tile. Handle the tile carefully. The cut metal edges are very sharp. It's difficult to
cut notches with a wet saw. A rotary tool(Dremel) fitted with a metal-cutting disc is a good tool for
cutting notches and other intricate shapes.
Holes can be drilled using a high-speed drill or hole saw.
PVC film must be removed after installation is complete. The tiles may otherwise be scratched during
installation.
Photo 3: Mark for an outlet cut
Hold the tile in position to mark both sides of the
electrical box. Then remove the tile and measure
the distance from the tile below to the bottom of
the box and mark this on the tile.
Photo 4: Cut cool with a wet saw.
Make straight cuts with the wet saw. A dry diamond or
abrasive blade will cut stainless steel, but the heat
buildup may damage the tile.
Photo 5: Notch with a rotary tool
Clamp the tile and cut the notch. Cut notches with a rotary tool.
Don't worry about the protective film on the tile; it will loosen
along the cut, but it won't melt or burn.
Glue the tiles to the wall
Photo 6: Go light on the glue
All it takes is a small dab at each corner. If you use too
much, the glue will squeeze out between tiles. Place
cardboard shims under the first course to provide
space for caulk.
Have the necessary tools for this project lined up before you start—you’ll
Clamps
Caulk gun
4-in-1 screwdriver
Level
Framing square
Hearing protection
Safety glasses
You'll also need a wet saw with a diamond blade and a rotary tool with a
metal-cutting disc.
Required Materials for this Project
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of
time. Here's a list.
Metal tiles
Construction adhesive-"Liquid Nails"-Construction Grade-HEAVY DUTY
Cardboard
Plastic electrical box extensions
Joint compound
Graph paper
"Liquid Nails"-Construction Grade-HEAVY DUTY
(sold at Home Depot-$2.31 per tube).
INSTALLATION:
Our Metal Tiles are installed just like regular tiles,using "Liquid
Nails"-Construction Grade-HEAVY DUTY(sold at Home Depot-$2.31 per
tube),non-sanded grout and are cut with tile wet saw with diamond blade or
a dremel with a cut off disk..Our Cement Board backed tiles may also be
installed with traditional thin set mortar.
.
When cutting the tiles with the wet saw be sure that the Metal Face is UP.
Holes can be drilled using a high-speed drill or hole saw.
PVC film must be removed after installation is complete. The tiles may
otherwise be scratched during installation.